Another walk

"Do you want to drink." The waiter says to us.  Then he continues with a question,"or are you here to eat?"

I would be questioning us as well, or kicking us out of the high class,  you usually need a reservatation resturant in which the cheapest dish starts at almost $40. We are in shorts, tank tops,  and dirty ankles and feet. I'm sure we smell as well.  The people around us are wearing slacks and the women dresses and heals.

"We are here to drink, maybe have something to nibble," I tell the waiter.

"Of course'" he says and leads us to a table overlooking the ocean  and the sunset view that will occur within the hour.

We walked from our hotel to the town of Oia. I read in one of the guide books that it was one of the top 10 things to do here on the island.

We tell the guy, Kosta at the front desk what we are doing. He tells us it will take "two hours if you walk fast, don't stop for pictures or three hours to take a couple of rests and with pictures." And he goes on, "If you make it." If???!!! Like who says that to me..... game on!

The first part of the walks is all steps and up hill. But its so pretty. Every step is worth a picture.  About 40 minutes later, the path become loose gravel but level. Okay, I can do this. We walk past resorts on the cliffside. This must be where the rich stay.  About 20 minutes after that, the path becomes a mix of gravel and  lava rock. And its all uphill. And its all in the sun. And very windy. Gusts of wind. My hat won't stay on. And its over 80. Did I say its all uphill??

We wonder where alll the other walkers are. If its in all the guide books, how come we are the only ones????

We stop for a break on the mountain top. Another couple is there. They too, are walking the route. Finally, other people. Unlike us, they are smart and have brought a bottle of wine and cheese.  They are making the most of their rest period.

I want pictures. Its a million feet down on one side and on the other side the of the 4 foot wide trail is only a few hundred feet down. Dan says the height is freaking him out,  no pictures. He needs to leave.

In all, the hike took us 2.5 hours.  Once we got to town, all I wanted to do is sit and  watch the sun set. The western point of the city is where everyone watches the sunset. And its packed with people. Oh swell. Thus the high class resturant.  Our waiter did treat us well.

I left a tip. (A big deal here in Europe. European's dont tip like Americans.)

The sunset will be the best sunset I ever see; in Greece.

And no, I would not do this hike again nor recommend it to you. Just take the bus.

Its all Down Hill

I'm in shape. Yes round is a shape; but I mean more like I'm in fitness shape. I jog about 15 miles a week plus Zumba and Water Aerobics however my upper theighs hurt so bad today its difficult to walk up or down any stair without screeching in pain.

We walked the lenght of Samaria Gorge yesterday. It is Europe's longest deepest and longest gorge. The hike starts at 1230 meters above sea level and ends at the Libyan sea at a small town called Agia Roumeli, the western side of Crete, total lenght of the trail is 18 k. I dont have enough Starbucks coffee to figure out how high the mountain is or how long the trail is in feet or miles.

Now that those technical details are out of the way, let me tell you about this crazy adventure. 

There is a public bus to take you to the start of the gorge. It leaves a bit after 7 am and it's a hour ride up a very steep mountain with crazy switch backs and hairpin turns. If you are able to keep your eyes open you would see herds of mountain goats. Goats in all shape, sizes and colors. One goat was sporting dreadlocks.

After that heart pounds adventure, then the start of the trail, and $5 to get in. You are responsible for your ticket the sign reads. My husband promptly gives me his.

Hundreds, many a thousand other tourist are also starting the trail. If you couldn't get on one of the public buses for $14, there is the private bus option for $39. 

The trail is covered in rocks of all shape and sizes, its steep and all downhill. With some many people starting around the same time, everyone is all bunched up. All Dan and I wanted to do was get around all the cluster of people, many of whom don't share well or play nice with others.  Many parts are a one person lane only and it gets scary with mesh covering the trail to protect the walkers from falling rocks. My personal favorite sign was, "walk quickly, falling rocks."

At first the downhill isn't bad. After a couple of hours, it's really tough on the knees, toes and ankles. As we pass people I wonder how they are going to manage in their flip flops and open toed shoes. Some people are totally serious hikers with boots and huge backpacks.

There are plenty of cute little rest stops along the way with WC. (No, not waffles and  coffee.) The WC's are all holes in the ground and after you use the hole, there is a bucket of water to clean up behind yourself.  Good thing I have anti-baterial wipes...and I used them on my feet. Anyhow.

We keep wallking. And Walking. And Walking. It's taxing on the knees & legs and constantly "putting on the brakes."

No end in sight...what have I've done.

Then a mere fouur and half hour laters, we're done. It was the trail that would never end. And now the wait that never ends begins.

Once you exit the trail, it's 2 k to a small town. From there you buy tickets $10 for the only ferry out of town at 5 pm.  We have 3 hours to wait in a town that has 7 cafes, 2 gift shops and no wifi, no ice cream. I did bring my swim suit, I had planned on rewarding my hiking efforts by soaking the the aqua blue of the Libyan sea however it's windy and cold.  We huddle in a open air cafe watching all the other hikers pass.

5:30 pm and the ferry leaves.  There is more people on the ferry than seats. We're packed. For the price of the ticket, and all the people squeezed on that ferry I know how Greece can pay off their debt with just a couple ferry ride.

6:45 pm we arrive to another town and walk uphill another 1 k to the bus. There are over 10 busses waiting on the ferry. We find ours and seat.

7 pm the busses decied to leave. I suppose the bus drivers are done with their gossip and smoke break.

8:45 we arrive back in town. If the mountain roads we traveled on to get to the gorge were scary, the one back was worse. I kept looking out my window and couldn't even see the road, just the cliff. I shed a little tear in fear. I thought of my mom, my daughters and closed my eyes as I held my husband's hand.

9;04 back in our little apartment/hotel room.  We have a snack for dinner in our room, Neither one of us wants to go out. Both of us are flat out exhausted.

Would do it again.....maybe.

Cigar Cigar

I was told by a Norwegian immmigrant who has lived in Crete 15 years it never rains in the summer.

Currently, it's raining.

Maybe people just tell you things you want to hear. Maybe its the truth at the time.

As we were running lost to find the bus station, I ran upto a man who was minding his own business standing in his private walk-way to ask him where the bus station was. Actually, I was ruder than that and just pointed to the bus station on the map. I assumed since he was a grandfather looking man he didn't speak English. Kindly he says to me,  "I don't see so good anymore. Just tell me where you want to go."
"The bus station, and quickly" I say to him.
He takes my hand and slowly walks me down his walkway, and then out to the middle of the street. Precious minutes are ticking away.  He points down the street in the direction we were already going.
"See that white building down the road?" He asks me.
"Yes."
"You walk to that building, turn right and then ask someone else'" he says to me, smiling and releases my hand.

The Norwegian immigrant who lied to me about the weather also told me the Cretan motto is "Cigar Cigar" which means "Slowly slowly."

We hustle off to the bus station..

We found the station with two minutes before the bus we want is scheduled to leave. We dodge the people and quickly made our way to the ticket booth.

"Two tickets to the gorge'" I tell the lady behind the counter.
"Why you in such a hurry?" She asks me.
"The bus leaves now" I inform her.
"It's sold out for today."
I look stunned at my husband. Now what.
"Take it slow" she tells me. "Come back tomorrow."

Cigar  cigar.

We took rest of the day slow.

Went to a winery, had the grand tour. Our host from Norway. We sat with a couple from Sweden. They were impressed we took the bus 20 miles out of town and then walked a  mile to find the winery.  They offered to take us around the western side of the island. We declined. They offered to take us back to our hotel.

We declined.

Instead, we spent almost 4 hours at the winery, drinking and eating cheese & Olive Oil trying to live the Cretan  motto which could be the truth of the day.

Olives

After a zillion emails to Kayak and Travelocity and watching the same numbered shirt cruise passengers pass even more times; we moved  on to another adventure.

Bike ride through the mountains of Crete.

Crete has a billlon Olive trees. There is 50 trees per each person on the island. I am told  the Olive harvest is in December. They press the Olives three times. First press is with cold water for the best extra  virgin olive oil, second time with hot water for olive oil and the third time to sell to Italy. Each person on Crete consumes one liter of Olive oil a week. I think they drink it straight.

What I didn't expect was half as many Orange trees. Some fields of Oranges were surrounded by Olive trees. I never expected to see the two trees grow side-by-side. And naturally, lots of lemon trees and  even saw Avocado. Serious. This western side of Crete is lush and green. We are also told the White mountains are covered in snow 6 months a year.

Our bike  ride was over  four hours. Thus far, the people of Crete are very friendly and actually wave back at you. Either that they are telling me to get off the streets.

Thus far, I havent't seen any museums.

Glitch

The day before we left on our exciting Greek  adventure (and thus museum tour) my co-worker asked if we had any glitches.

Today we had one.

Months before we left, I booked a flight from Kayak Athens to Crete. An one hour flight, less than a hundred bucks. So much cheaper than the 10 hour ferry (according to the guidebooks.)

Before we left, they had changed our flight three times. I spent hours during my lunch break attempting to change the times. They wanted to put us on a 7 pm flight) after booking a 7 am flight. Kayak even changed the date.

After an hour of being on hold, I had finally reached a representative and *believed* I had all correct. Back to the orignal date and time.

Up at 4:30 am to catch the one hour bus to the airport only to discover our tickets  were cancelled  by Kayak. Yeap. Cancelled. No email, no notice, no refund. We did the only thing we could do at that point; buy new tickets at almost triple the orginal price. At this point, we are just happy (not really happy nor pleased nor joyful but you get the picture) to be on the airplane.

That was our glitch.

Once it Chania, Crete we found a seat in  the shade at a cafe. We  watched cars go down the one-way street the wrong way (one-ways are mere suggestions) cruise ship passengers with numbers  on their  shirts looking lost & confused, and locals who walk with purpose wearing cute shoes.

During this time, I email Kayak. Within the hour I get a response. It simply said,  "sorry you experienced a problem, we did not handle that part of your travel plans. Please contact Travelocity. With kind reguards."

I think I found the real glitch.

Coffee Free

Day Four and Final Day  

Today is the final day of our eight day Classic Greece tour. It's not my math. The tour company considers the morning you depart as your final tour day, even if its at 5 a.m. But enough of tour math.    

This day we were on the bus and leaving our hotel before my work would open it's doors to serve the public.  

The breakfast wasn't as good. Maybe we are expecting  too much from a all-you-can-eat Greek breakfast buffet. Oh sure, the olives and tomatoes are tasty but only one choice of each. We've been spoiled with a half  dozen kinds of olives and tomatoes prepared every way you can think of for breakfast. My personal favorite has been the fried tomato smoother in cheese. Oh yes.

My least favorite part of breakfast; coffee. I am a Starbucks, Dutch Bros, never-drink-coffee-from-a-can kind-of girl. Coffee here shouldnt't be called coffee. Maybe a cup of tar? My husband adds cream to his coffee and it doesn't change color. Does that tell you everything you need to know? Yes, it's that bad. I actually paid three Euro (close to 5 bucks) for a small, 6 oz size of coffee at a museum. I need my coffee. As my husband would tell you, he makes coffee not for me in the morning but for my co-workers.

Anyhow, for almost my five bucks cup-of-tar the gal only filled it half full. Rather half empty. I insisted she fill my cup. Suddenly she didn't speak English. I refused to pay. She called her manager over to speak to me. I told him I want a full cup He told me impossible, that was all I needed.   I paid and drank my tar.   This morning I didn't drink any coffee. In fact, no coffee for me all day. I believe I've been a joy to be with.  

Now that you've heard my tail of woe; let me tell you about day 5/7.  

We went to what is considered the forrest of rocks, Meteora which means 'suspended in air.' These bizarre rock formations became home to monks and nuns seeking a life a solitude during the rule of the Turks.  Today, six monasteries are nestled on top and side of these rock formations. It is quite the site to see. We viewed two churches with Byzantine art and our guide described in detail what we were seeing; the life and death of Jesus. A break from Zeus. Naturally, a museum followed. By this time I don't wear my whisper. I can't stand that ear piece so I just stand close enough to the guide to hear her. (Imagine that.) Besides, one church is smaller than my bedroom. Surprised anyone wore that silly-littlle ear piece. Most everyone did.  

Lunch folllows.

Dan and I make a break from the group. We walked several blocks until we find a tiny place with no English menu. We sit. The grandmother-lookinig-woman asks what we want in German. We tell her something to eat and drink. She brings us out one beer, two glasses. Okay, we can share. Much later she brings us out a tiny plate of food, two forks. Did I say one tiny plate of food??? It had two tomato slices, two slices of fried zucchini, three bites of a potoato and two bites of bread. We look at the plate and chuckle. It's diet day. And then we inhaled. It was by  far the tastest plate of food we've had all week. Total price for one beer, one plate shared by two; two Euros.  Best price ever.  

Back on the bus for an exciting six and a half hour ride to Athens.  

Wish I had a coffee and another tiny little plate of food.

PS Spellling and such errors are because this program doesn't have spell check and I'm too exhausted to spend extra time figuring out which words are wrong.

Navel

 I've been to the center of the earth and its on a mountain hillside. 

Actually its a mountain cliff. 

How people built a city and the temple to worship Zeus without a car or anti-motion sickness pills I'll never understand.  

According to tradition, Delphi was the geographical center of the world. The first traces of habitation in this cliff side dates back to Mycenaean times 14- 11th c. B.C. People flocked from all around the ancient world to ask the Oracles seeking advise. Our guide tells us many stories about Zeus. 

To sum up Zeus was married to a jealous woman and Zeus loved (almost) all women and had many children. His  children thus became gods. Zeus appointed all his children (all but one was illegitimate) control over certain aspects of the world; such as the god of the ocean, goddess of love, the goddess of beer. (I made that one up.) Naturally after climbing the hill like a goat to take pictures of the alter to Zeus, the stadium, the amphitheater there was a museum. Our tour guide must love museums. She can talk unmercifully forever at every piece. The security guards in each room had to ask her to move on. (I would of gladly paid for that if I had thought of it sooner.)

After another high-priced lunch near the ocean, back to the bus for a four hour ride. Lucky us, today's stop was at a rest stop. Not the same excitement as a bridge or an canal but our tour guide did say we could snap pictures. Gratefully, no museum.

To the Bridge

Olympic Games; Day 2; oops I mean day 5.  

An early morning. The phone rings at 7 am indiciating its time to wake up. However, I am up, dressed and ready to rock and roll.  

By 8:15 am I am standing on the site that held the Olympic Games, The orginal site. The positive about booking a tour is the history, the stories the tour guide tells you, the stories you don't read in the guide books.  Our guide tells us about how the games were to honor Zeus and all wars would stop for 6 weeks before and 6 weeks after the games. People could travel without the fear of attack if they carried a Olive Branch.   I'm listening to the stories as I snap pictures.

The downside to a guided tour is the stories and information goes on and on and on. After awhile, your ears start to bleed. And mean this literally. The listening devies so the tour guide doesn't have to yell is called a Whisper. Man, that thing hurts. And then the listening stops all together. By the time we made to the orginal track, Dan and I took off. No, we didn't run the entire 600 meters but we did walk it. And that in itself was worth the trip to Greece.   After walking the grounds of the anicent site is a museum. Naturally.

And finally lunch.

Here is another downside of a guided tour. They decide where (and when) you will eat. Lunch is at a Greek establishment called "Tourist." And what do you assoicate with the words tourist? Yes, that's right, an inflated price. We paid more for lunch (and since it waas fixed price our options where either to eat or not to eat) than have for all the lunches combined in the past five days we've been in Greece. Was it good? Did I hear you ask. Yes, it was. Almost worth the stop but a place we never would of ate there on our own.  

Back on the bus for a two hour ride to see a Bridge. Yeap. We are told its the worlds longest cable bridge. We stopped to take pictures and visit the museum naturally.   Back on the bus for a couple more hours. Arrival at the hotel at 7 pm. I am not as exhausted today.  

Thus far, I have listened to more Greek stories than I'll ever remember. I have talked to 45 interesting people. And I get to do it all again tomorrow.   Wonder where  we stop for photos tomorrow.

Hopefully a moutain.

Bussing Around

And then the Bus Tour.  
 

I confess.  I booked a bus tour for four days.  
 

My husband and I travel well together except when driving.
 

When you go on vacation in  a foreign county in a language you don't understand; you don't think about the little details like Google Maps. Oh sure the directions are fine. And you can read them just fine in your language. However, the road signs will be in Polish if you are in Poland whereas your directions will be in English. When visiting Poland we printed our Google Maps in the Czech Republic. Since neither of read Czech and the signs in Polish, the drive into Poland was much like one of the those Chevy Chase Family vacation movies without the fun or laughter and *almost* ending a perfectly fine marriage. Thus, the reason we stopped driving on vacation.  

The four day tour is called 8 day Classical Greece.  
 

No, my math isn't that bad (it is) but that is the title of tour.  
 

The tour company considers your first day of travel, your flight as day one. Day two  is your arrive day; which for most people is commonly known as Walking Zombie day. Day three is the site seeing in Athens, or the day most of us awake from Zombie land. Thus, the tour really starts on day four. Now if only work would pay me in this new math method.  
 

I digress.
 

The first day of the Classical Greek Tour (remember its really day four) the bus picked us up at our hotel at 8 am. The bus was already full.  Since we were sitting in the back seat of the bus, I had plenty of opportunity to scope out our fellow travelers. Some young couples in their 20's and several not-so-young travelers. And what looks like a mix of diverse people. And I'm not the only redhead which totally bums me out.   The first day was packed with sightseeing, picture taking, tourist traps galore.  

We stopped to see a canal. Oh yes, I can hear your excitement now. However I have the pictures to prove I was there. (Sorry I'll stop my bragging.)
 

Next stop, the amphitheater of Epidarus which is still in used today, which is the site where doctors got their creedo (you know what it is...think about it) where the doctor taught & practiced. Here it rained. And was cold. Very cold. I stood under an Oak tree.  
 

After lunch, we went to the ancient city of Mycenae. This city has Lions at the front gate for protection and what is believed to be the first Royal Mascots used anywhere. Here is was blazing hot and I only wanted shade and stood under an Olive tree.   After several stops along the way at selected tourist shops to spend our hard earned money for products marked up 50 percent.
 

We arrived at our hotel a bit after 8 pm. And this was without the benefit of dinner. Or beer.   Reflecting upon the day, I have to ask myself if the cost-benefit of taking a 8 day tour (in four days) better than driving.  And as I get ready for bed and realize I actually *like* my husband today I'd have to say Yes, and I can't wait for tomorrow.  
 

Maybe we get to stop to look at a bridge.

Memory Maker

Creating memories....for others  

First the tomb of the unknown solider.

We first walked past at 4 am. Jet lag you know. So we watched the march and knew the rules of the imginary line you can't cross. We returned later that afternoon to capture a few photos and to help others create memories.  

First, a British couple.  I told her the best shots of the walking pom pom toed soliders are from the side. She nodded at agreement with me and ran off to snap a few photos. Before she could snap her fingers much less her shutter, a  hoard (okay only really a couple) of soliders came aafter her..."You can not stand here" the solider scorn her. She quickly runs  away as I hear her husband said "do you have to get in  trouble everywhere we go??"  

The couple I pray on is a young Japanese couple. I offer to take their picture together with the solider. I know the rules, pictures only one person at a time. The young couple agree this is a good idea hand over the camera. They too, are quickly scorned by the police and told to leave the area immediately. I believe they'll like the shot I got...the shot of disbelief and embrassment on their faces.  

Oh, don't worry, I'm equal opportunity.  

We visited the National Archaeological Museum. The rules are, enjoy the pieces; look, don't touch and no goofy photos.

Goofy. Yeap, thats the working in the introduction sheet along with the map. I wanted to test that word, goofy. So I had my husband pose the same way as a Bronze Statue of Zeus. You'd think all hell broke loose. The guardians of the room came running at Dan yelling "You can not do that. You must delete your photo."  

Now I know goofy means posing the same as a 1000 year old statue. Some of those poses are goofy but at least Dan had his pants on unlike Zeus.   Who shall I create a memory for next????

Athens.....

Reflections of Athens  

The iconic symbol of Athens everyone knows. Everyone wants to visit. Also one most important ancient site in the western world.  

The Acropolis.  

The Acropolis has been the heart of the city since the beginning of recorded time (Neolithic area, 6800 B.C. ) and tourist taking pictures of ever since. However, the Acropolis has been looted, vandalized and bombed before recorded history (I made that part up...before record history. I am just assuming that the cavemen had robbery's and low lives as well.) This land and the surrounding area in which the Acropolis sits has layer and layer of different ruins from every time period. Scientist and historians have made some SWAG (scientific wild ass-guesses) on what is what, and what happened.  

With all that being said; don't set your expectations too high.

Oh sure there is the cool factor of saying I've been there and got the photo but its much like a visit to the Grand Canyon. Once you get there, what is the proper amount of time do you spend looking at it before you leave for lunch??

It is, after all just a bunch of columns standing up right. Oh sure, I had the thrill of standing in front of the very first Olympic Stadium where the very first race from Marathon ended; sitting on the steps of the worlds oldest stage, and the thrill of walking the path of Plato.

However, I wouldn't make a trip to Athens just to see the Acropolis.  

I would make a trip to Greece for the ancient history, for the Archaeological Museum, the food, the adventure.   Not to see the site on the hill. But if you come this far.......you better.  

And be sure to take the picture.

Out of the Octopus of Grime

Athens is a dirty city.

On the surface, the underbelly and all parts in between.  

I read in the guidebooks Athens cleaned up for the 2004 Summer Olympics. That's about the same statement of an apartment manager telling you that they cleaned out the rift raft and most of the drug dealers are gone. They believe it but you know it's a lie.  

Thus a day trip to the Island of Hydra.   No scooters,  no cars.    No scooters on sidewalks as the drivers smoke and drink and I've seen a few do the trifecta of all three, smoke, drink and talk on the cell phone.  

No cars....no cars driving down the pedestrian only zone, which I am personally quite fond of. Dodging people is just not fun enough but throw in a few cars makes for a fun filled day.  

Nope, none of that. Only a few mules and jackass to carry luggage and sometimes riders around town and island.   Before hiking the island or walk the hilly, full of stairs city; lunch was in order.  

We found a cute joint. Okay, all places are cute; all with outdoor tables with shade on the marble lined walkway. We sat at Ostria and had fried zucchini and calamari.

Yeap, we asked what was fresh and that is what the owner told us. She also told us we must share, and gave us two plates. She started us off with a drink and the the zucchini. Much later, break and then bread. Much later the calamari. After that she brought me a latte and left. Yes, left as in left the premises. We had been sitting there for two hours.
You should know that lunch is the primary meal. And its to be eaten slowly.   Slow was okay. Spending the afternoon was not.  

The trip to the island is quite the destination. It starts with 40 minute metro ride from the center of Athens at 7 am to get to the port. The high speed ferry takes almost two hours. The last ferry out of the island is at 6 pm. I really wanted to put my feet in the sea.   Perhaps this is why the island is not overrun with tourist is because the island lacks any good beaches. Mostly just rocky bluff in to which you jump into the ocean.  

We looked around for the owner to pay up. We found our ticket inside the restaurant and left the amount plus  three more dollars (Euros) and walked away. The owners husband chased us down the street, "you leave too soon" he tells us.  

"Was everything okay" he asks.

"Oh yes. Very good. We would come back."

"Very well" he tells us "but you pay too much."

"Please keep it (the three dollar tip.)" "Are you sure?"

  Are we sure??? Why yes, we had a fresh lunch facing the sea, slow and relaxing pace away from the dirty big city, with sun on our face and not smoke in our eyes.   Oh yes, we were sure.